Day Nine – The African Safari at the Nairobi National Park

Well, I almost didn’t go on the safari because I thought it would be lame.  But until you see the pictures, words cannot adequately describe the beauty of seeing the animals in the wild.  I realize some of you may have been to Lion Country Safari or some other similar amusement park safari; this is something quite set apart from those imitations.  All, but one of the delegates attended and he stayed back at the hotel for a noble reason.  “What was his reason?” you ask, well I am not going to say, but let I will tell you that his stock as a husband went up tenfold in my book (you rock Terry!).

Let’s see, I believe the first wild animal we saw was a hippo (which looked much like a large rock to me), but only part of his head was visible.  Disappointment easily set in, but we kept our hopes up after all it was still only 7:30 a.m. and the animals were bound to be out while it was still cool.  Sure enough, we came up on impala’s, heart beasts, and water buffalo next.  Our driver, Peter, was excellent and all of the drivers used two-way radios to update the caravans on animal spottings.  But nothing prepared me for what we saw next…beautiful, graceful and gigantic giraffes.  By looking at the pictures, you can tell how close we were to her.  She literally walked right past us and posed for our cameras.  Stunning!

In about two hours, we had spotted a vulture, ostrich, zebras, more impala, heart beasts and water buffalo and three lions.  We even came close to a pregnant lioness and that was absolutely amazing to see.  I discovered a hidden talent that I got honestly from my father; I have an “eye” for capturing subjects on film.  My pictures of these animals are spectacular, so please enjoy at www.flickr.com/photos/mytriptokenya-robin/

Hakuna Natata

RW 

Day Eight – The U.S. Embassy and The National Museum of Kenya

Our first full day in Nairobi started with a trip to the U.S. Embassy.  Security is tight but we made it through with only a few glitches (but I can’t really detail the glitches to ensure security procedures are not breached J).  The U.S. has over 100 agencies in Kenya and the Embassy employees about 300 U.S. citizens and 800 or so Kenyans.  There are several monuments in tribute to the employees that lost their lives in the 1998 bombing of the U.S. Embassy.  We were hosted by the Cultural Attaché’s office that is responsible for providing funding to keep the Lamu Museum and other aspects of the Lamuan culture preserved.

After the Embassy, we traveled to the National Museum of Kenya.  Travel to and from in Nairobi is treacherous at best.  There are very few street signs or lights and every other block has a roundabout.  Cars drive over each other’s lanes, of course there are no lines, and cars dart in and out and cross over lanes as normal course.  The museum is much like our Natural History Museum.  The Kenyans are proud of their heritage and have several exhibit halls dedicated to the evolution of man and the Kenyan civilization.  Overall, the tour was very impressive and the site itself is well designed.

Nairobi is quite different than Lamu.  It is like any normal large city where people walk in between cars and traffic lights are virtually ignored.  It was nearly impossible to walk the streets of downtown Nairobi without bumping into people and like any large city; the native folk are aggressive on the streets.  Of course, we stood out.  Four African-Americans and three Caucasian Americans, so if you are not comfortable with fast cultural assimilation, then downtown Nairobi is not for you. To keep things as simple as possible for everyone’s sensitive palette, we ate at the hotel each night.  The accommodations were very European, so we were very comfortable at the Sarova Stanley Hotel.  The staff was very attentive and for the most part, efficient (even compared to American standards of “fast, fast, fast”).  But, my heart is still in Lamu, where the islanders will tell you “polo polo”, loosely translated as “go slowly” or as I like to tell myself “slow your butt down.”  This will be something I will try to live by going forward.

RW

Day Seven - Travel to Nairobi

I took a much needed break from blogging as the timing of logging on-line while traveling from Lamu to Nairobi was difficult.  We left Lamu Island around 3pm, which gave us a lot of time in the morning to do some serious bargain shopping in Lamu with Fatma as our guide.  Fatma, who is featured in the photo with me, is considered on of the esteemed leaders of Lamu.  She's head of the American Corner, which is an American cultural center in Lamu supported by the Embassy. 

All of the Lamu delegation (the head master, head mistress, Fatma, Selem the Lamu Museum Curator, and the proprietor of the Lamu House, Frank who's from Belgium) traveled with us by Dhow (think old time sailboat) over to Manda Island where the airport is located.  After saying our "goodbye's" we got ready to get onto that little plane again with propellers, not jet engines.  But, I took a couple of dramamine's and survived (prayed a lot).  I have to admit....I was a bit sadden to leave Lamu as our hosts were nothing short of fabulous!  Rustic never felt so good!

Once we reached Nairobi, it was clear things were going to change fast.  This is a major metropolitan city in Kenya...think NYC or Chicago but with no traffic lights.  Stay tuned for our visit to the U.S. Embassy and the National Museum of Kenya.

RW

Day Six - The Takwa Ruins on Takwa Island

The morning started with one of the most beautiful Catholic services I have ever attended (of course, I have only attended about 2 or 3, but anyway...).  Father Crizphine's parish, Mary Mother of God, is located next to the Lamu Museum (recall, their our host for the delegation...I did tell you we were official District visitors, otherwise known as delegates) which is just a few stops down from the Donkey Sanctuary that is located next door (yes, next door) to the fabulous 5-star hotel, the Lamu House (where we are staying).

For me, a non-Catholic, the service reached the level of exceptional when the kids (at least 20 ages 3-14) began their singing and dancing during the various processional during the mass.  Words cannot describe their impact, so I will post a link for you to experience it nearly first hand...later (once we figure out how to condense the file).  The parish is the only one on Lamu Island, not surprising since it is nearly 70% Muslim.  The Catholics and Muslims co-exist peacefully.  Actually, everyone exists peacefully as there is no crime in Lamu...everyone looks out for each other and even the seemingly, conspicuous characters are harmless and are as eager to great you with a "Jambo" as are the little kids.

Later today, we took a boat over to Takwa Island.  Takwa was a 16th century village (although the Lamuans has some evidence that ancestors inhabited this island as early as the 9th century A.D.  The Takwa Ruins are part of the Lamu Museum and have daily tours going in and out.  The key to having a great experience is to ensure you do not visit the island in the morning since that's when the snakes come out, and to ensure you leave before sunset so you only have a few feet of water to wade through to get back to the boat.  It is quit amazing to realize how much this culture relies upon the movements of the ocean (that's the Indian Ocean for those of you who are not good at geography).  Our hosts knew what time we needed to arrive so that we were able to cross the bridge safely and likewise, what time to leave so that we did not sink into the quick sand going back.  The changes in the topography have to do with the water levels of the tide.

I have posted some amazing pictures of the Ruins.  The ancient Swahili culture. 

Of, by the way, we had our own private Henna Art party at the Lamu House when we returned.

Enjoy!
RW

Day Five - Touring Lamu Town

Lamu is a 12thcentury town.  It has roots stemming from the Arabs, Chinese, Indian, British, and African influences, so the population is very diverse.  Lamu is 70% Muslim and 30% Catholic.  There are no motorized vehicles in Lamu.  All Lamuans get around by walking or donkey (yes Jen, I got on a donkey just for you!).  Today we toured the town of Lamu, by foot, of course.  The tour allowed us to glimpse into the ancient Swahili culture.  The Swahili Muslims in Lamu are extremely focused on maintaining the cultural richness of their ancestors.  To that end, the Lamu Museum holds an esteemed place on the island and all aspects of the town's culture is lead by the Lamu Museum.

After the tour (it only takes a few hours to acclimate to the high temperature), we had nearly 7 hours to relax back at the luxurious Lamu House.  I indulged in a massage on the deck of the hotel...the best massage I have ever experienced.  My fellow delegates lounged by the pool and listened to music.  This was our first day we had time to actually sit back and relax.

At 7pm we were distinquished guests of the Lamu Museum and the boys and girls put on a show for us at the Lamu Fort.  The kids sang, danced, and recited poetry.  It was almost like a girls v. boys competition and I must say, the girls rocked.  All of the delegates danced with the kids and it was one of the most enriching experiences I have had in my life.  I felt like I belonged to a culture and a race that was so much larger than what I have lived.  I am sure the other delegates felt this way as well based upon their body language and self-expression.  Everyone, and I mean everyone makes you feel welcomed.  All of the singing was in Swahili, the dancing and music was ritualistic (rhino horns, animal skin drums, etc.) and the outcome was nothing short of miraculous.  Don't get it twisted, however all of the kids are required to speak English while in school, so the program could have been in English, but we would have missed the whole point of cultural expression ("In Their Own Voices")that crosses boundaries of nationality, race, gender, etc.

We, Americans, still have a lot to learn.  Enjoy a bit of Swahili culture on me.

RW

Day Four - The Lamu School

This is the moment we have all been waiting for...the reason why we are all here in Lamu, to build the giant mosaic "In Their Own Voices. 

Today, we saw the kids….yeah.  This is the reason we are here, that is, to bring two cultures together (the culture of Swahili Lamuans and our very own kids from downtown Cincinnati schools).

Here’s how it works: kids from the sixth grade at Hayes-Porter, St. Joseph’s and SCPA are paired with sixth graders from the school in Lamu Island, Kenya.  The culture-sharing occurs via the creation of a mosaic entitled “In Their Own Voices.”  The mosaic’s theme and design was created by a local artist in Cincinnati, Annie Ruth.  If you have not heard of her before, you must now check her out….just google her J. 

The concept of the mural is simple.  The kids in Lamu each have one tile to paint expressing their own individuality of what the cherish most.  They can only use certain colors, but can choose a variety of media.  The mosaic is entitled “Shaping Our Voices” and the unveiling will be in mid-May.  We brought the art supplies (and the artist!), a teacher from each school, and a few other ambassadors (yours truly being on the Advisory Board of the Cincinnati Children’s Museum Center).  We spent the day setting up the room for the kids, explaining the concept of “in their own voices” and proctoring their creativity.  It was such a pleasure working with these delightful kids, and “yes” the girls and boys were separated.  What was the hardest part you ask?  Getting used to sweating, swatting flies, and staying hydrated.  All worth it!

We will take the artwork back to Cincinnati and the kids at our schools will do the same thing some time in March.  The mosaic will be put together and unveiled in May at the Cincinnati Museum Center and our hosts from Lamu will be in attendance.

Here’s a few words from some of the American teachers and our project leader, Dr. Tonya Mathews:

 “I was really struck by how kids are kids no matter what part of the world they are in.  I was so surprised by how much they were like my own students back home.” (Ann Marie –SCPA 6^th grade teacher).

“Sweat!  The kids are so welcoming and polite and were as interested in me as I were in them…deep.” (Laura – Hays-Porter 6^th grade teacher)

“A day that will not soon be forgotten!” (Justin – St. Joseph’s 6^th grade teacher).

“It was an amazing day, it was awesome to see our teachers in their own element working with the students even across the ocean…an amazing teacher is an amazing teacher.  The art project was a huge hit!  Annie Ruth really brought out the creativity in every child.  I couldn’t believe how quickly our community ambassadors mixed into the teaching and the art…it was more than I had hoped our planned in.”

Guarheri ("Goodnight")

Day Three - We Finally Arrived in Lamu

Getting off the plane in Kenya, the temperature inside the airport was ridiculous...upwards of 90 degrees with equal parts musk and humidity.  Saw a woman fall off a stool, looked back and our Program Director, Terry, was kind enough to help her up (no one laughed) unitl now...LOL!

We had to spend the evening at a hotel in Nairobi with security guards on every floor, so we felt complety safe... The morning started off grand, your usual breakfast buffet of eggs, breakfast meats, cereals, and lentils and porridge.  We are eating a lot of fruits, mango, pinneaple, passionfruit, oranges, watermelon, hopefully all washed in sterilized water....(I'm just sayin')

Getting  to the airport was a trip all by itself.  We had over 20 pieces of luggage which required a van plus a passenger car for just the overflow luggage alone (see picture if you don't believe me).  Then, when we arrived at the airstrip (notice I said airstrip not airport), we were 120 lbs overweight in luggage!  I tried not to have a melt down when I saw the prop plane waiting to take us to Manda (not Lamu Island, we still needed to take a boat from Manda to Lamu Island, seriously).  Finally, our wonderful Program Director talked the airport employees down to a reasonable rate and we paid to get our overweight luggage onto our 40 seat plane (with 2 propellers).

Did I say it was all worth every minute of it?  Lamu Island is beautiful and wait to you see the Lamu House...we are guests of  Marianne and Frank who are the proprietors of this beautiful mansion.

Tomorrow, we see the kids.
Goodnight.

Day One and Two

Day One, which I suppose was technically our first travel day, Tuesday, March 1 was one long continuous day of travel.  We had a light lunch in Montreal, followed by a 6 hour flight to Amsterdam, which ended on Day Two in Nariobi. 

Today, Thursday, Marach 3 we are headed (in 7 min) back to the Nairobi airport to fly to Manda, then take a dhow (something like a sailboat, but I am hoping for a motor too LOL) over to Lamu Island.  Lamu does not have motorized vechicles, so I guess it makes sense that there's no air strip either.

More to come, with photos.
Love and Kisses,
RW
p.s.  hi Ted